Beer on the Road: Reading & Lancaster

 

Business and personal travels took me to Pennsylvania, specifically Reading and Lancaster. I had been to Lancaster on other adventures but Reading was new. Providence had provided and I would have time to explore some of the local beer. I am glad to say I have some very favorable reports to log.

Beer Reconnoiter

This is the first time I've spent any time in Reading PA, at least enough to explore the local beer scene.  I use an iPhone app called BreweryMap (it also has a web version) to quickly learn the landscape for the local breweries.  I have found this application very useful when visiting a new location. Bring up the app and it will show you all the breweries in the vicinity. Move the search area around, touch the "search this area" tab at the top of the screen and pins will pop up showing you local breweries. Touch the information icon and up pops the list of useful information such as current beers, telephone number, website and even address useful for finding your way to the brewery. I also find the favorite beer-geek-tool — Untappd — very useful for this as well and did use it to find local venues and recent beers being served there. I'm assuming that if you're reading this you already know about Untappd.

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Spirits in Lancaster

This large room serves as tasting rooms for both Thistle Finch Distillery and Wacker Brewery in Lancaster PA

Reading PA

Chatty Monks

Brian & Matt - ready for some beer at Chatty Monks

Brian & Matt - ready for some beer at Chatty Monks

Good fortune, Chatty Monks popped up at the top of the list, had excellent Beer Advocate ratings and was within an easy drive or healthy walk from my hotel. I engaged a couple colleagues to join me and we were off. While not a big place, the beer — as you would expect by the name — very much had a Belgian-style focus. They had a quite decent menu with a range of styles. Being it was my first time here, I chose a flight of three five-ounce pours — Revelation Dark Ale, Belgian Blonde, and Belgian Dubbel. All were quite good and true to style. So good, I ventured on for a full pint of the Endoplasmic Reticulum IPA at 7% ABV and 77 IBUs — venturing away from their solid Belgian-styles. Again very good with some very interesting hop notes on the finish. 

Chatty Monk beer menu

Chatty Monk beer menu

Besides the beer, the other qualities that would bring me back to Chatty Monks was their staff. They were very engaging and friendly, quick to offer a sample when questioned about a particular beer. Not always do I go for the background music of a place (see Adroit Theory article), being a product of the Beatles era and nearly set in my ways, but it suited my boomer tastes just fine with eclectic selections ranging from Led Zeppelin to Gary Clark Jr. The food was definitely above average pub food and I would be quick to recommend the tuna tacos.

West Reading Tavern

After a full day of sitting and listening to a variety of presentations, my butt could stand little more. I had a couple of hours before the evening banquet and Untappd told me of two places nearby with excellent beer. I had time for just one and it was right next door to Chatty Monks. A brisk 20-minute walk later I was at West Reading Tavern. Untappd reported that they had Hardywood Gingerbread Stout on draft (94 pts on Beer Advocate). I knew this brewery, having had several of their beer at Savor 2016 and also picked up some bottles in Harrisonburg VA on another trip. The beer I'd once had was the bourbon barrel version and was obviously more complex than the regular edition, but it was a great beer in its own right. It was a nice neighborhood bar with locals bouncing in and out. With a friendly and engaging bar staff. I finished my 10-ounce tulip and I was soon trekking my way back to the hotel for the evening banquet. The other place I'd hoped to get to, but did not, was Mike's Tavern. Untappd informed me that they had Rodenback Alexander (98 pts on Beer Advocate), a Flanders red ale that has been on my wish list. A bar too far and one I will have to leave till my next time in Reading.

Lancaster

Lancaster Brewing

Lancaster Brewing been menu

Lancaster Brewing been menu

I had visited the Lancaster Brewing brewery and restaurant a couple of years ago. At the time, their flagship beer was their milk stout — big, creamy and a touch sweet. This is fitting being that they are in the heart of Amish country. The brewery facility and the restaurant are located in the historic Edward McGovern Tobacco Warehouse, listed on the National Register of Historic Places in 1990, in Lancaster, PA. A great place for a 21-century brewery.

This trip we had lunch and a beer at their tap room. Their beer selections seem to have grown and become more complex since I visited last. My tastes have become more complex since then as well, instead of having their signature milk stout I opted for their Imperial Jo Milk Stout, (I'd been in that mood lately) logging in at 8% ABV. It was a good beer, I enjoyed it, but unfortunately I only had time for one.

The room was bright and clean as were the faces that served us. If in Lancaster, this deserves a stop and a beer.

Wacker Brewing & Thistle Finch Distillery

A Wacker Brewing flight

A Wacker Brewing flight

Again, going to the trusty BreweryMap app, I discovered that Wacker Brewing was within easy walking distance from our venue. We had some time and the desire to explore the town, so off we were toward Wacker. An interesting note, for me anyway, is that my paternal grandfather's nickname was Wacker. I don't any more than that, it just was. I didn't know it until we later did a tour of the building, but this was once a tobacco warehouse, too — like the Lancaster Brewing building. Sturdy of build and character. As usual, I did the flight which was comprised of all six of their offerings (see beer menu pic below).

In the same building as Wacker Brewing was Thistle Finch Distillery.  A somewhat symbiotic relationship of mutual benefit, they even shared the tasting room with separate bars across from each other. We were about to leave when we noticed the distillery tour about to start. We walked all of twenty feet and joined the tour. It was during the tour we learned that Lancaster at one time had a bustling tobacco industry. As smoking preferences shifted from cigars to cigarettes, the Lancaster tobacco business fell out of favor, too. Now, many of the those fine warehouses have been converted to other uses, such as breweries. They offer a variety of rye whiskies, a gin and vodka. Well, we didn't pick up any other fine spirits, I did grab a couple of the Bittermilk Bitters that were offered for sale there. I'm experimenting with the addition of bitters to certain beers and found these had some interesting ingredients such wormwood and being aged in bourbon barrels. I knew these were unique to the area so I didn't want to pass up the opportunity.

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Wacker Brewing

The beer tasting flight is composed of all six of these beers on tap

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Thistle Finch

Rye whiskey is their signature spirit but they also produce gin and vodka

Checkers Bistro

Checkers Bistro and Avery Vanilla Bean Bourbon Barrel Stout

Checkers Bistro and Avery Vanilla Bean Bourbon Barrel Stout

While walking around Lancaster, enjoying the beautiful day and town, it came time to think about lunch. We passed by Checkers Bistro, walked in to check the menu and atmosphere. We were impressed. The menu was upscale, both food and drink. We opted for the Checkers Apple Salad, which must be one of their signature menu items, and I had the Peking Duck Tacos with Chinese Barbecue Duck, Wonton Taco, Guacamole. I mention this because the food was excellent.

The beer menu was not extensive, but balanced in styles, chosen to pair with their foods, and offered choices from local breweries and across the country. Being attracted to big beers, I asked for the Bourbon Barrel-aged Vanilla Bean Stout by Avery Brewing Co. Bottom line, excellent food, beer, staff and decor.

Iron Hill Brewery & Restaurant

Iron Hill Brewing

Iron Hill Brewing

Next was lunch at Iron Hill Brewery in Lancaster. My first visit to an Iron Hill Brewery was in 2014. Little did I realize at the time, but there are a series of these scattered across Pennsylvania, New Jersey and one in Delaware. I counted 12. There were several sporting events taking place in Lancaster during our stay and when we were looking for lunch, so were they all. The place was packed, but amazingly it didn't take long to be served. 

Still on a stout rampage, I asked for the Iron Hill Brewing Russian Imperial Stout. Really exceptional. According to their poster near the entrance, this is their most awarded beer. The food was very good, all around. As I'd mentioned, we had visited another Iron Hill venue three years ago and I don't remember being as impressed by their beer then. I was this time.

Final Thoughts

Ultimately, I had an wonderful beer and spirit laden adventure in a couple of beautiful Pennsylvania towns. Beer has come a long way, with craft breweries and artisanal distilleries popping up in many towns across the country. And the liquids are good and getting better as these shops mature and get better at their craft. Hand crafted beer, spirits, even bitters — life is good.

Roadtrip: Millstone Cellars

 

Nested in the rolling hills of northern Baltimore County Maryland, Millstone Cellars makes for an excellent day trip and musing while enjoying well crafted ciders, meads and cysers.

In October 2016, my family and I visited Millstone Cellars in Monkton, MD, north of Baltimore. With the beautiful fall weather beaconing we needed a road trip and Millstone had been on my mind for some months. I had heard their story at least a couple of times from various beer podcasts I listen to regularly. I later asked them about some of these interviews and here are two: Beer Sessions Radio (08.23.16) and Cider Chat 

Millstone Background

MillStone is about discovery and re-creating. It began in 2003 when Curt Sherrer acquired an old grist mill. In 2011, after careful restoration, the mill was brought back to life to function as a classroom for rediscovering traditional, rustic ciders and sharing that knowledge with the curious at heart.
— Millstone Cellars - History

It was A Beautiful Day

It was a beautiful day with perfect weather for a ride in the country. My son and his wife were seeking a road trip and I'd mentioned my desire to get to Millstone at some point. It was decided, and we were off for a ride in the country. Monkton is just north of Baltimore MD with roaming fields and forests, horse farms and new and old towns and buildings. The Millstone building is an old mill, as you would expect, that had been purchased by the family some years ago. Wondering what to do with this grant old stone mill, someone decided to make ciders would be a good idea.

While the mill has been renovated, it still needs some work but that even added to the ambiance. Still, it is grand building and has its own story to tell. Their website offers a study on The Water Mills in Monkton if you are interested in the history of the mill.

We decided to take in the guided tour of the mill and a tasting their ciders. I don't know much about the creation of ciders but do love the way wood works it's way into barrel-aged beers. Barrels were everywhere — in just about every available spot — and for good reason, all of Millstones products are barrel-aged using barrels from a variety of previous lives — bourbon, rum and other spirits.

My interest was peaked when I discovered some of the ingredients they use as curious flavor enhancers, a few of which I learned to identify in dendrology class back in forestry school. Spruce, spicebush berries along with more common grocery store supplies like ginger, rhubarb, raspberries and some familiar beer staples — hops. 

As you walk through the mill, you notice the barrels were marked with chalk-inscribed notes of its contents and all-important dates. The sunlight played across the floor and walls of stone, wood and plaster. Various works from local artists were displayed throughout added to the playful nature of the old mill. At the end of our tour we were invited to their tasting table. Some of their ciders and meads were available for testing — some not, adding to our curiosity. I have tasted spruce tip beers before and enjoyed some, particularly the Dogfish Head Pennsylvania Tuxedo. We didn't get to taste their spruce infused mead so as a birthday gift we purchased a bottle and walked off to their back room to further enjoy our bottle, the views, warming sun and great company. Off to the side of the main mill structure, they have added portions of another rustic building, with open sides for taking in the landscape. A few couples were enjoying the tasting room, making me think this was a regular resbit for local fans. As a beer aficionado, I had to grab the hop infused cider to take home for future exploration — merely research mind you. All of their bottles come in clear 750 ml glass with a wax sealed swing top. A classy touch for these well crafted concoctions. 

Millstone Cellars is a farmhouse cidery that crafts all oak barrel aged dry ciders. We focus solely on the production of rustic style ciders, cysers and meads, heavily influenced by the native yeast, microbes and local growing conditions. We source all of our ingredients within 150 miles of our cidery as well as growing and foraging our own. We strive to distill and preserve all things that make our region and climate unique, then present it to you in a bottle of cider.
— Millstone Cellars

Conclusion

The day waned and our hunger grew. Asking about local dinner options, our tour guide recommended The Manor Tavern. If you do get to Millstone Cellars and are looking for a fine meal afterwards, it is highly recommended. A road trip to Millstone Cellars is a great way to spend an afternoon. The road getting there is half the fun. The ciders and meads, the old mill all work together in crafting a synergistic experience.

 

Beer on the Road: Adroit Theory

 

Holiday Get-Away

During the Christmas holiday, my wife and I took a couple of hikes near Harpers Ferry WV. We usually like to plan a First-Day Hike on New Years Day and have been doing this for the past three years. After the Holiday bustle and too many cookies, we need to get out for some intentional moving. Taking-in nature and working our legs is always good therapy. As usual, it often includes a good meal and a beer or two.

Savor 2016

Adroit Theory Brewing has been on my beer-travels list for a few months after experiencing some of their beer at Savor 2016, in Washington DC. I later listened to Mark Osborne (owner) and Greg Skotzko's SAVOR 2016 Seminars talk on Advanced Beer and Cheese Pairings. SAVOR is an excellent evening of tasting beer from around the country but nearly as valuable are the salons where experts talk and even demonstrate (see Cooper's Dance: Wood and Beer) topics on beer. If you've missed the event, you can go to the SAVOR website and listen to any of these salon presentations.

Adroit Theory is tucked away in a small northern Virginia town of Purcellville VA. The ride from Harpers Ferry WV to Purcellville is a beautiful experience. Two lane country roads, large spreading wineries — one after another — small towns and incredible views.

After becoming initially aware of them at SAVOR, they had my attention. I later discovered some of their beer at the Midtowne bottle shop in Harrisonburg VA.

Time at the Taproom

After listening to their seminar and seeing the art work on the bottle labeling, a couple of things become clear — these guys come from the dark side. Their entire brand has an intentional occult flare. To be honest, that bothers me a bit. Beer names include: Black Celebration, Black As Your Soul and Love of the Damned. So, I had to get past the branding to enjoy their incredible beers. I've talked with some beer-geek friends who can't get past the gargoyles on Stone Brewing packaging to try their beer. He will have a real difficult time with Adroit Theory. And the beer is the second point. They really take their beer seriously. All of them are just a bit different. As they say out loud, "We make esoteric beers with an emphasis on barrel aging."

They offer 3 ounce tasters and 10 ounce tulips of all their beers on tap, plus they can fill growlers (yours or theirs — nice touch). While there, I had a taster of Love of the Damned, an old ale brewed with port must and Lux Bourbon, a wheat wine aged in bourbon barrels (I still had a two-hour drive home), plus I purchased a couple 750 ml bottles to take home. Any of their beers I've tasted have been exceptional.

Closing

 If Dogfish Head is off-centered, I'm not sure how you would describe Adroit Theory. They are a small brewery, doing big beers with a unique touch. They are a bit out-of-the-way but worth the detour (or intentional journey) if you're in the area. I will be on the look out for their beer when I get back to Harrisburg or near Purcellville. 

Adroit Theory Brewing Company is a new nano brewery specializing in esoteric brews with an emphasis on Barrel Aging. Located in Purcellville Virginia in Loudoun County. Industrial-chic taproom (open Thursday-Sunday) with craft beers at the bar & growlers for takeout.

Beer on the Road: Harrisonburg VA

 

Harrisonburg VA is in the heart of the Shenandoah Valley. It is a beautiful community that I have come to enjoy and visit over the last few decades. During that time the beer scene has grown there as it has just about everywhere. Harrisonburg now has three breweries or at least an outpost — Pale Fire Brewing, Three Notch'd Brewing and Brothers Brewing. Three Notch'd has a taproom in Harrisonburg VA with the brewery in Charlottesville VA. As I travel there, I'm able to take in a bit more each time. Last year I wondered over the the Brothers Brewing taproom and sampled some of their offerings. This year, while I didn't have time to visit another of the breweries, I did have time to stop by the Midtowne Bottle Shop.

I like a place that recognizes itself as a bottle shop. It is concise, simple and you have a good idea what you're getting.

THE TAKE-AWAY ON MIDTOWNE

If you are a local or James Madison University student (of age) this is probably the place you will want to go to pick up beer. That is, of course, unless you go directly to one of the three breweries already mentions. If you are a visitor to the area and looking for some good local beers, this is a one-stop-shop to get some of the Harrisonburg beer but also some of the other regional beer that doesn't have a supply chain that reaches to your neck of the woods. Some that I brought home were from Hardywood Brewing (Richmond VA), Adroit Theory (Purcellville VA) and Champion Brewing (Charlottesville VA).

 

Midtowne Bottle Shop, Harrisonburg VA

Midtowne Bottle Shop, Harrisonburg VA

THE DEPOT

The Depot Beer Menu

The Depot Beer Menu

That evening we had a great dinner in Staunton VA at The Depot. The food was great and the beer selection was good with a healthy mix of local, regional and nationally distributed craft beers. I tried the Goodwood Brewing Bourbon Barrel Stout. The menu was one that required reading a few times to decide what you were going to have. One of the specials that caught my eye was the Polyface Farm burger. I'm not one to usually order a burger, more like seafood or something chicken. I'd read Michael Pollen's book, The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals a few years ago and the Polyface Farm was highlighted. It was delicious and I had accomplished my burger goal for the year.

Set amidst the stunning Shenandoah Valley in northern Virginia, ‘Polyface Farm’ is led by the “the world’s most innovative farmer” (TIME) and uses no chemicals and feeds over 6,000 families and many restaurants and food outlets within a 3 hour ‘foodshed’ of their farm.
— Polyface Farm