Beer on the Road: St Louis to Rolla

I have the pleasure of traveling to various cities around the country a few times a year. And as a dedicated beer geek, I take the opportunity to research, explore and experience the local beer scene as much as my discretionary time will allow. As a result of some of these adventures, I document these trips in a series I call Beer on the Road.

Savor 2016: A Premier Event

Just before my June 2016 trip to Missouri I had attended Savor 2016 in Washington DC. For those that may not know, this is a major beer and food event hosted by the Brewers Association. I attended Savor 2015 and was able to seek out breweries in regions I would be traveling to later in the year. Last year those designations included Seattle and New Orleans. At Savor I was sure to taste and talk to the guys at the breweries from those towns — those included the NOLA Brewing. While in NO I was able to take an Uber to the NOLA Brewing Co taproom to expand my tasting experience first hand.

Note: An excellent way to learn more about all things craft beer is to attend one of the Savor salons. Since you can't attend all of them, the Brewer’s Association makes it easy for us by recording and making them available for downloading and leisurely listening. 

Urban Chestnut, Savor 2016

Urban Chestnut, Savor 2016

This year at Savor I stopped by the Urban Chestnut Brewing (among many others) table knowing that in a few days I would be in their town of St Louis. I certainly was impressed with their beer. I didn't know anything about their beer or operations as they don't ship to Maryland. I'd mentioned to the fellow pouring that I would be traveling to his fine city in just three days. He informed me that they have two breweries not far from the St Louis airport and have restaurants at each. I knew where I'd be having lunch soon after my arrival

Urban Chestnut Brewing - The Grove

I had an unusual occurrence during a recent trip to Missouri, besides the flight into St Louis, I had a free day to explore. 

After gathering my bags and rental car, poking the Urban Chestnut info into my navigation app. I wasn't sure which of the two Urban Chestnut locations I should visit, knowing I only had time for one. The Midtown location was their original and according to their website, has only a limited food menu. The Grove location is a former paper company built in the 1920s, with more food options. I choose The Grove.

Urban Chestnut The Grove, St Louis MO

Urban Chestnut The Grove, St Louis MO

Upon arrival to The Grove neighborhood of St Louis I soon became aware that I would be opening the place having arrived just before 11am — but noon according to my body. I was their first customer of the day. Walking up the stairs I was faced with a huge, bright and empty bierhall (beer hall). It was filled with brewery banners and large wooden benches for patrons to enjoy their food, beer and good company. Even at first glance, I liked this place.

Urban Chestnut, The Grove, St Louis MO

Urban Chestnut, The Grove, St Louis MO

I noticed the kitchen opening in the corner and asked the gentleman how their setup worked — really, it wasn't obvious. He informed me to start a tab at the bar and then come back to order my food. Done! Being that it was early and I had a some stops to make before continuing on my travels, while the heavy German beer styles certainly looked appealing, I decided some of the lighter beers may be more appropriate and choose the witbier that was recommended by the barkeep.

Now back to the food. The menu was simple and to the point, mostly German meals (e.g. German port sandwich or Schnitzel) to accompany the beer styles. I have to say I'm a sucker for anything with a fried egg laid on top of it and opted for the Strammer Max — Smoking Goose City Ham, Gruyère de Comté (unpasteurized cow cheese) & farm egg with onion jam on rye toast. And it was delicious! And with the witbier, it was awesome.

Strammer Max at The Urban Chestnut

Strammer Max at The Urban Chestnut

Unfortunately, my stay here had to be short. This is a place that if I ever find my way back to St Louis I will drink in as much as I can — literally. One more thing, where can I find an excellent bottle shop to find good local beers to share with my colleagues later in the week, but also to take back home to explore in more leisurely settings. I'd discovered two shops highly recommended on the Beer Advocate website for St Louis. The bartender recommended one of these and that it was a short drive away. He also was quick the recommend some excellent local breweries. Off to the Craft Beer Cellar in the Clayton part of town.

Craft Beer Cellar

The Craft Beer Cellar is in Clayton, a posh section of town. CBC was full of local beers and others that don't ship my way. I picked up three bombers (Katy an American brett saison, Cat Spit Stout, Brew Cocky double IPA) from 2nd Shift Brewing (a STL micro brewery) and Two Frenchmen, a Biere De Garde (a beer style I've learned to love) from Heavy Riff Brewing. I always travel with six padded and sealed wine bottle bags for just such occasions. You’ll have to check in to my Untappd account to learn the results.

Schafly Bottleworks

Schlafly Bottleworks, St Louis MO

Schlafly Bottleworks, St Louis MO

Schafly is a brewing company that ships back east and I've come to enjoy a variety of their beers. The Schafly Bottleworks was a few minutes drive and I had some time before getting on the road to Rolla.

Schlafly Bottleworks, St Louis MO

Schlafly Bottleworks, St Louis MO

This was a production brewery, with all the stainless steel and t-shirts to prove it. They offered a compelling 5 x 5 flight (5, 5oz beer samples). So I lingered for a few moments more. They do serve food there and have a beer garden just outside the facility. There was some bustle but I had plenty of room to spread out. The beers were good and I tested some that I hadn’t had before or simply caught my attention, like an IPA with an experimental hop variety. 

Time to hit the road to Rolla.

The Road to Rolla

Rolla is about a two-hour drive to the Southwest from St Louis. Green, leisurely and mostly straight. Upon arrival, our local host had already prepared the hospitality suite with a couple coolers of excellent local beer — one was dedicated to only IPAs. I knew I'd never be able to sample all of what was available, but I was going to enjoy the task of learning some new breweries and some local offers of some familiar ones. Boulevard, Schafly, Urban Chestnut, Perennial Artisan Ales, 4 Hands, Piney River, 2nd Shift  — St Louis brews some awesome beer. And I has a chance to try a bunch over the week.

The Public House Brewing, Rolla MO

The Public House Brewing, Rolla MO

Public House Brewing Company was the site for one of our dinners that week. I have to admit, I ate at a Buffalo Wild Wings. When in Rolla MO after 9pm you don't have many choices. I learned something that evening. While you may think of this restaurant chain with multiple options for standard light American lager, they also like to bring attention to some good local beers. Knowing I would be going to Public House in a couple of days, I decided to do some early recon work. The Revelation Stout was very good.

A friendly greeting - The Public House Brewing, Rolla MO

A friendly greeting - The Public House Brewing, Rolla MO

The Public House Brewing is a great stop if you're in the area and need some relaxation, good food and beer. We had a buffet setup for us so I can't attest to the rest of the menu but what I had was good eating. The brewery is also associated with the St James Winery which sits just next door. You can sit in The Garden and enjoy beer, wine or any cocktail of choice while playing bocce. The atmosphere that evening was beautiful and the beer matched the mood.

Bar decor - The Public House Brewing, Rolla MO

Bar decor - The Public House Brewing, Rolla MO

I had already had their stout so wanted to very the range by having a Rod's Cream Ale and the Elusive IPA. Their other choice was the Hide and Seek Hefeweizen. I love a good hefeweizen but typically find the American versions short of their German cousins. Just my opinion.

The Beer Geek Suitcase

I travel to other states on average ten times a year. This includes personal trips to neighboring states and regional business trips. As a self-proclaimed beer geek, I make it a habit to seek out places to eat that have good beer selections (local selections are preferred), brewpubs, and premier bottle shops. So I usually do my homework with the help of BeerAdvocate, RateBeer, BreweryMap and Untappd.

The other thing I've learned, and it seems obvious to me but from conversations I gather not so much, is to carry the proper tools of a semi-pro beer geek. That would include a bottle opener, which is really a small item to include in your toiletry bag or hang from your backpack. This has come in handy on more than one occasion.

The other item I keep in my suitcase are wine bottle protectors. These form fitting bags are shaped to hold wine bottles (or 22 oz bombers) with bubble padding and a ziplock seal at the opening. They are available on Amazon for about $16.50 for a two-pack. I carry six. 

I have brought back as many as ten bottles in my suitcase, some in these bags and some wrapped in dirty jeans. I have never had a bottle break or leak either way, but I definitely feel better knowing that bottles in one of these bags have a better chance of protecting my clothes from spilled liquid and the embarrassment of pulling a suitcase from the airport luggage carousel reeking of beer.

One other note, I normally only travel with bottles because cans seem less secure to me. However, during this trip I orchestrated a bottle swap with a colleague and he brought cans. I did secure the cans in the wine bags and had no problem at all.

Bottle Swap

As I have written about before, beer geeks have a way of finding each other out. Inevitability, any conversation will eventually circle around to beer and usually stay there for some time. Some people will connect, some will not. Those that do, you will know, share the beery passion with you.

As mentioned, I am able to travel the country to participate in several regional committees each year. Beer geeks doing what they do, are always looking from elusive beer that doesn't ship to our local.  My colleague from New Hampshire was more than willing to bring some fine beers from New Hampshire and Vermont. In return, I carried the Hoplar Imperial IPA bomber (90 pt BA) from Hardywood Park Craft Brewery in Richmond VA and a Chardonnay Barrel Belgian Ale Fall Migration (89 pts BA) from Evolution Craft Brewing in Salisbury MD. I discovered Hardywood while having lunch in Washington DC not long ago. And since they do not ship to Maryland, I went looking for the closest outlet and found a shop in DC that did carry them while on my way to the Savor event. Okay, I got two, one for the swap and one for myself. Hey, a beer geek, remember!

Beer on the Road: Albany

Beer Reconnoitering

When I travel to a new town I try to do some research ahead so I have at least a few places I want to visit. One of the best sources is BeerAdvocate website, searching "Places" by city. I typically have a few goals, one is to bring back some bottles of beers that don't ship to my area. BA says that the best places in Albany to solve this issue was Oliver's Beverage Center.

Oliver's Beverage Center

By the time I arrived at Oliver's I had only 15 minutes before closing, so I needed to be efficient. I was not disappointed, they had all the good stuff on display as I walked in, but I was looking deeper. Having been reading about aging beers I focused on some barleywines and imperial stouts by recognized great breweries such as Sierra Nevada. I also was able to pick up a few from local breweries I didn't know but styles I've enjoyed. Plus, the bottles just looked good with the cork-and-cage. Stay tuned for a future writing on the success of my choices.

The Merry Monk

The Merry Monk, Albany NY

The Merry Monk, Albany NY

An establishment with the name of all-things-Belgian-beer it has to be good. Plus, the BA for The Merry Monk told me it was a place to have my first meal and beer. The pub food was beyond the classic choices. I ordered the hand-made salmon burger with roasted brussels sprouts and was not disappointed. 

The beer was excellent, many local belgian-styles like Ommegang. Oh I'll have a Ghent Bhent from Chatham Brewing from Chatham NY. A flight is always a favorite method to maximize tasting opportunities. Ommegang Rare Vos and Abbey Ale, Burly Monk by another local Common Roots Brewing in Glenn Falls NY and finally the night cap was a Vicaris Winter Ale by Brouwerji Dielewyns in Belgium. Simply beautiful. And to boot, my hotel was within a fine-minute walk.

Olde English Pub

Olde English Pub, Albany NY

Olde English Pub, Albany NY

Of course the best way to find great beer in an unfamiliar town is from a trusted fellow beer geek living in the area. 

So at our hosts recommendation we went to the Olde English pub, which is nicely tucked away into an old house that's been converted to an English style pub. Dark and warm, a friendly old pub with a painting of Churchill over the mantle watching your every move kind of charming. They had wonderful array of English beers, many that I've not had before, and some old favorites such as the Samuel Smith collection. I had a new beer that I knew of but not tried, Morland's Old Speckled Hen. The beer of the evening was Fuller's London Porter. Deep, roasty, full of malt-forward flavors. I'm too use to the American hoppy versions of the style, but the English varieties are a welcome diversion that I want to try more of.

The Albany Pump Station & Evans Brewing

Albany Pump Station & Evans Brewing Co, Albany NY

Albany Pump Station & Evans Brewing Co, Albany NY

Then we walker around the corner to Evans Brewing and Albany Pumping Station. This was a huge old warehouse brick building that was once the old pump house that would pump water from the Hudson River to the top of the hill where it could be distributed for use in the city of Albany. It now serves as the location for Evans Brewing and have done an incredible job turning into a beautiful eatery and brewpub. The group settled on the Kick-ass Brown which according to the banners draped on the walls had won a Gold metal at the Great American Beer Festival.

The Ruck in Troy

The Ruck, Troy NY

The Ruck, Troy NY

The thing about being a beer geek is that we have a way of finding each other. It's perhaps a bird-of-a-feather kinda thing. But its a beautiful thing with much merit. Life lesson: if you have not declared your beer geek status, go now, shout it out loud where ever you are. So I'd mentioned to a colleague with family in Vermont that I was hoping to find some Hill Farmstead beer, but understand that they don't leave the state. The night before he had dinner with his sister living in Albany and she knew of this place — well you can guess the rest. The Ruck in Troy NY, was just ten minutes up the road was serving Hill's plus they had vertical tastings of both 2013 and 2015 Goose Island Bourbon County Stout and Sierra Nevada Bigfoot barleywine 2014 and 2015. Yes!

It was all I'd hoped for. If I lived in Troy we would be best friends. They were pouring the Hill's Double Galaxy DIPA plus the Conduct of Life pale ale. I had to experience both Hill's and the BCS vertical, but the Bigfoot samples were a bridge too far. Hey, I have a liver to think about. I wish I had more time to spend here and take in more of their incredible beer selections. It was obvious they take beer seriously. But alas, I had to meet friends for dinner and I was already late. If I'm ever back in their neighborhood, I will be sure that there is more time for The Ruck.

The Pearl St Pub

Pearl St Pub, Albany NY

Pearl St Pub, Albany NY

Dinner was a capricious decision and as we walked down Pearl St the Pearl St Pub caught our fancy. Well the salmon BLT was thick but the beer choices was thin. The Davidson Brothers brown ale was a good beer, but to be fair, it didn't have a chance just having the Bourbon County Stouts. 

So I left Albany with many great beer memories but still so many beery places that must be left until next time.

Max's Taphouse

I have read Short Course in Beer: An Introduction to Tasting and Talking about the World's Most Civilized Beverage more than once and a chapter I have studied is where the author lists some on the best beer places in the USA. Of course there is Monk's Cafe in Philadelphia and it also mentioned Max's Taphouse in Baltimore. It has been on the road trip short list ever since. 

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Beer on the Road

I recently read an article Beer Tourism and actually contacted the authors about some of their thoughts. So while recently traveling to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan I decided to take this thought into practice. I would be spending four days in Marquette, a beautiful town on the banks of Lake Superior.

So doing a some pre-trip recon I learning there were three local breweries within walking distance of my hotel. Score!

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